Tag: mechanical

  • Let’s talk watches

    TSo, a lot of people might know me as the guy who geeks out about laptops, computers, electronics, guitars and such. But some people might not know that I’m also a geek about watches as well. I’ve always liked mechanical watches, in particular, because I’m at heart an engineer and the engineering that goes into something so small and precise is quite fascinating.

    I like established Swiss and Japanese brands of course, but I care more about the style of the watch itself. I don’t like sporty looking watches, or chronographs, or watches with too much going on in them. Some complications I do like are date (a must have IMO), day (nice to have), moonphase (looks cool and nice to have), heartbeat (looks cool and nice to have), dual time zone functionality (useful for travelers), tourbillion (useless but looks very cool). I think those are all great looking or useful complications.

    After doing a lot of research I can separate different watch brands into the following tiers:

    Really cheap (<$100)
    Timex
    Casio
    Swatch
    Seiko 5

    Mainstream / Affordable ($100-$1000)
    Seiko
    Citizen
    Bulova
    Shinola
    Orient
    Victorinox
    Tissot
    Hamilton
    Longines
    Raymond Weil
    [Misc Fashion brands] like Michael Kors, Fossil, Diesel etc

    Entry level luxury ($1000-$5000)
    Tag Heuer
    Oris
    Frederique Constant
    Grand Seiko
    Bremont
    Baume & Mercier
    Sinn
    Mido
    Rado
    Tutima
    Maurice Lacroix
    Montblanc
    Junghans
    Nomos
    Tudor
    Eterna
    Stowa

    Mid level luxury ($5000-$10k)
    Rolex
    Omega
    Cartier
    Breitling
    Hublot
    Chopard
    Zenith
    Ulysse Nardin
    Universal Geneve
    Bell&Ross
    Jaeger LeCoultre
    Girard Perregaux
    Glashutte Original
    Piaget
    IWC
    Panerai

    High level luxury ($10k+)
    Patek Phillipe
    Vacheron Constantin
    Audermars Piguet
    Breguet
    Blancpain
    Richard Mille
    FP Journe
    Jaquet Droz
    A lange & Sohne

    So because I am not the type of guy to buy something *super* expensive (my dream car actually is only a Genesis G80 which is entry level luxury car), the watches that I go for are also just ‘entry level’ luxury brands.

    My previous daily driver dress watch was an affordable Orient Sun and Moon ($300~)

    Orient Sun and Moon
    Orient Sun and Moon

    It was a solid mechanical watch, and Orient is well known for making really good value mechanical watches for the price, and also producing their own movements in house which is impressive.

    However, since I just recently got myself a couple ring for my girlfriend (>$1k), I thought it appropriate to up the watches that I wore as well. I went for two luxury watches this time, because both of these watches serve different purposes. My budget was $5k for both watches put together. I liked watches with ‘simple’ looking complications and having a very clean style. After doing a lot of research I settled on these two:

    Oris Greenwich Mean Time
    Oris Greenwich Mean Time

    The Oris Limited Edition Greenwich Meantime ($2000) is a nice watch to use both as a daily driver sporty looking watch, and as a travel watch. I especially liked the subdial showing a second time zone. Since I travel between Korea/Canada/US very often its useful to have this feature. Also note the steel bracelet and date window and power reserve complication here. Oris makes great quality mechanical watches so this is the one I picked.

    Frederique Constant Classic Moonphase
    Frederique Constant Classic Moonphase

    The second watch I picked as a dress watch, is the Frederique Constant Classic Moonphase ($2700). This one was more expensive due to the watch being an in house movement by FC themselves. I looked at a bunch of other cheaper options but I just couldn’t get over how beautiful this watch was. Rose gold plating (I know, not real rose gold but cmon look at the price), beautiful subdial for the date, moonphase complication and alligator strap just won me over. FC are also known for making great value mechanical watches especially when they use their own in house movements and not outsourced ETA movements.

    So yeah my total cost came to $4700, which was just under my $5k budget. I know this seems pretty expensive still but I think of it this way – a good quality mechanical swiss watch can actually last several lifetimes. I can pass it down to my kids in the future. When you think about how much I spent on electronics, laptops and guitars, then $4700 doesn’t actually seem as much as you think. Anyways, I’m happy with these two watches and hopefully they will last me many years to come.

    Smartwatches over $200:

    1. Apple Watch ($200)
    2. Motorola Moto 360 ($350)
    3. Pebble Time Steel ($250)
    4. Samsung Galaxy Watch Active 2 ($200)

    Traditional watches over $200:

    1. Oris GMT ($2000)
    2. Frederique Constant Slimline Moonphase ($1300)
    3. Junghans Meister Calendar ($1500)
    4. Hamilton Ventura Elvis80 ($800)
    5. Seiko Presage Cocktail Time ($600)
    6. Nomos Tetra ($1500)

    Other watches (worth less than $200)

    1. Seiko Kinetic ($150)
    2. Seiko 5 ($50)
    3. Fossil Abacus ($70)
    4. Casio Databank ($50)

  • Comparison of Luxury watches

    I’ve always thought a classic mechanical watch is better a smartwatch; it lasts longer, has more sentimental value and if its automatic, will probably never need charging. Plus they look unique. There’s hundreds of thousands of styles compared to just one black AMOLED screen for the smartwatch. I have the same complaint about modern smartphones these days too. I miss the days when phones came in all different sizes and forms, slider phones, candy bar, flip, clamshell, etc now there’s just one type: big black slab.

    Anyways here’s a comparison of all the luxury watch makers I found. Is it worth it? questionable, but these brands all have a lot of cachet.

    Audemars Piguet
    Founded: 1875
    Headquarters: Le Brassus, Switzerland

    Vacheron Constantin
    Founded: 1755
    Headquarters: Geneva, Switzerland

    Patek Phillipe
    Founded: 1851
    Headquarters: Plan-les-Ouates, GE, Switzerland

    A. Lange & Söhne
    Founded: 1845
    Headquarters: Glashütte, Germany

    Breguet
    Founded: 1775
    Headquarters: Vallée de Joux, Switzerland

    Blancpain
    Founded: 1735
    Headquarters: Paudex, Switzerland

    Longines
    Founded: 1832
    Headquarters: Saint-Imier, Switzerland

    Chopard
    Founded: 1860
    Headquarters: Geneva, Switzerland

    IWC
    Founded: 1868
    Headquarters: Schaffhausen, Switzerland

    Girard-Perregaux
    Founded: 1791
    Headquarters: La Chaux-de-Fonds, Switzerland

    Ulysse Nardin
    Founded: 1846
    Headquarters: Le Locle Switzerland

    Tissot
    Founded: 1853
    Headquarters: Le Locle, Switzerland

    Panerai
    Founded: 1860
    Headquarters: Milan, Italy

    Piaget
    Founded: 1874
    Headquarters: Geneva, Switzerland

    Cartier
    Founded: 1847
    Headquarters: Paris, France

    Breitling
    Founded: 1884
    Headquarters: Grenchen, Switzerland

    Rolex
    Founded: 1905
    Headquarters: Geneva, Switzerland

    Jaeger-LeCoultre
    Founded: 1833
    Headquarters: Le Sentier, Vaud, Switzerland

    Omega
    Founded: 1903
    Headquarters: Biel/Bienne, Switzerland

    Tag Heur
    Founded: 1860
    Headquarters: La Chaux-de-Fonds, Switzerland

    Baume et Mercier
    Founded: 1830
    Headquarters: Geneva, Switzerland

    Gallet
    Founded: 1466
    Headquarters: Zollikon-Zürich, Switzerland

    Universal Genève
    Founded: 1894
    Headquarters: Geneva, Switzerland

    Franck Muller
    Founded: 1991
    Headquarters: Geneva, Switzerland

    Charriol
    Founded: 1983
    Headquarters: Le Locle, Switzerland

    Zodiac Watches
    Founded: 1882
    Headquarters: Le Locle, Switzerland

    Zenith
    Founded: 1865
    Headquarters: Le Locle, Switzerland

    Montblanc
    Founded: 1906
    Headquarters: Hamburg, Germany

    Corum
    Founded: 1955
    Headquarters: La Chaux-de-Fonds, Switzerland

    Ebel
    Founded: 1911
    Headquarters: La Chaux-de-Fonds, Switzerland

    Eberhard
    Founded: 1887
    Headquarters: La Chaux-de-Fonds, Switzerland

    Invicta
    Founded: 1837
    Headquarters: La Chaux-de-Fonds, Switzerland

    Rotary Watches
    Founded: 1895
    Headquarters: La Chaux-de-Fonds, Switzerland

    Movado
    Founded: 1881
    Headquarters: La Chaux-de-Fonds, Switzerland

    Bulova
    Founded: 1881
    Headquarters: New York City, USA

    Seiko
    Founded: 1875
    Headquarters: Tokyo, Japan

    Solvil et Titus
    Founded: 1887
    Headquarters: Geneva, Switzerland

    Mido
    Founded: 1918
    Headquarters: Geneva, Switzerland

    Raymond Weil
    Founded: 1976
    Headquarters: Geneva, Switzerland

    Frederique Constant
    Founded: 1988
    Headquarters: Geneva, Switzerland

    Bell & Ross
    Founded: 1992
    Headquarters: Paris, France

    Bremont
    Founded: 2002
    Headquarters: Henley-on-Thames, England